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Liberator 3.4
Motorcycle Diaries: South Africa (#1)
words: Stephanie Tisdale, Melvin Barolle, Nate Mathews
 



Stephanie Joy Tisdale:

June 8th, 2004 2:30 a.m.

I'm thinking that everything happens for a reason because my intention was to spend the summer of this year in Paris. However, as fate, destiny, and all other mysterious powers would have it, I am actually preparing to travel to South Africa. This trip has surfaced at a time when my hunger for more has become consuming. The same old same old is getting to be so old and I keep feeling like there's more to this whole life thing.

I've been blessed to travel to Senegal, the Gambia, Ghana, Amsterdam, Egypt, and Israel and have found, in every place, a new taste, a different sound, an untapped feeling. Not perfection or even bliss, but a sense of learning something that I didn't know before. And, as if this weren't enough, I will be spending my 21st Birthday on a plane, traveling to the other end of the earth. The anxious, pessimistic part of me envisions a dramatic finale: the girl who thought she could journey across the globe and actually live to see it! But I believe that all things are divine and in order, so the best I can do is use my human intuition, letting it guide me in the direction I think I should be going.

I know that there is a reason why I will be in South Africa this summer. I'm thinking that it is my job to recognize what that reason is. In my partially-successful search to find information about the people--the indigenous African population--I have discovered that there are many who actually believe that South Africa is a European nation. Its original people are pushed to the periphery of not only the political and economic mechanisms of the country, but are even culturally marginalized. Thus, South Africa is very much so the mirror image of the United States: a place so fantastically created, it is unreal.

Nonetheless, I am not going for the politics. Or to understand the economic climate. I'm going because I am hungry. I want to know what manner of humanity lies in this place, at the very tip of a land mass that is home to the people who have been on earth the longest. If there is anything to learn or understand, it must be there. Even in the midst of the indignities which force young orphans to prostitute their adolescent bodies, or the desperation which allows adults to attempt to cure illnesses by defiling the innocence of their own children; and in spite of excessive unemployment, townships and displacement, or the engineered plaque that continues to take lives--these people continue to survive. How or why these things occur, I do not know. But there is something to be said about this place and the will of its people to press forward.

I am humbled and grateful to have the opportunity to travel to such a powerful place, significant in and of itself (with or without the "afrikaaners" or the Apartheid). I am interested in using this time to learn from my people: to understand what it is that they live for, what gives them strength. While I am not sure what twist of circumstances have made me who I am, nor have I pinpointed--as of yet--why it is that my life has taken this particular path, I know that besides living and dying, there is the space in between for learning and understanding. In my attempt to learn and understand, I hope to build bridges and make connections in ways that will be helpful to the people of South Africa.

Lord Willin'!

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Melvin Barolle

Wow, so I’m finally leaving the country and going to South Africa of all places. It’s still hard for me to fathom that I’ll be boarding that plane in a couple of days. While I’ve primarily seen clips and read about the struggles of Africans against the evils of apartheid, I am not particularly interested in black rage. It seems as if the fascination of black rage has become a lucrative market. Nowadays, bookstores are overflowing with literature detailing the intricate lives of folk who took a principled stand against injustice and inequality. There are stories of martyrs, life timers in jail, victims of state sanctioned terror and those that never made it to their 21st birthday. Yet, there is nothing exoticized about this rage for me. Growing up in my hood, I’ve witnessed the dire effects. The problem with black rage is that it is uncontrollable. Its organic nature coupled with survivalism makes targets of not only to those responsible for their condition but those who share it. Saddest of all, black rage determines. Dreams are deferred, excuses consume, and that most precious of life, hope, is compromised. Nah, I’ve seen black rage and my interest in South Africa at least for now is not that. Moreover, thus far my college experience has taught me that the current exigencies we as a people face are not definers of who we are or more importantly have been as a people. While the problems we face today cannot and must not be ignored, it is important that we do not bind ourselves to the conceptual fetters of modernity because as the old maxim goes: “This too shall pass.” Hence, I’m going to South Africa not for militants, conspirators or the like. Not to say I’m eschewing this group, my level of respect for those that stand in the face of adversity is enormous, especially after reading up on the psyche of those European descended degenerates parading around the country preparing for a literal Armageddon-esque situation. On the contrary, what I am seeking in South Africa is to be around that so essential to life… people. As Archbishop Tutu is fond of saying, My humanity is bound up in yours, for we can only be human together. Expanding this to Africana exigencies, I look forward to seeing how American Africans are viewed in the imagination of South Africans. What are the shared cultural characteristics? Where do we diverge? When are those points of departure surface level and can they be scraped? These are queries that occupy my mind at this time. Ultimately, this trip will give me a chance to forge relationships with those in a country who I believe along with Brazil, Venezuela and Nigeria are the vanguard of the Africana movement to break the shackles of the 500-year room we as a people have been encapsulated in.

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Nate Mathews

I haven't been able to write in many months. Oh, I can churn out research papers, flyers, emails, and memos like a paper mill. But my mind seems to resist the self-reflection of personal writing; my journals come off sounding like political tracts or degenerate into ideological sparring.

I wanted to get back into this discipline of personal reflection in order to prepare myself for my first visit to South Africa, so I turned to an old exercise: journal writing.

Unlike Stephanie, this will be my first time on the continent, only my second time out of the country. I have been reading articles, newspapers, and books about South Africa and its history, paying special attention to place names, so that I can quickly form a geographical idea of the area when we begin our travel. These place names--Soweto, Robben Island, Cape Town, Sharpeville-- are loosely linked with a series of events in my mind, and I am looking forward to making them more concrete. Honestly, I do not have any idea what to expect, but I can feel my excitement rising as the date draws near.

Two days ago, I stood outside the federal arsenal in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. This is the town where John Brown and his band of 12 men, held off a contingent of U.S. Marines for several hours, attempting to incite a rebellion that would end slavery in America. Ironically, the marines were led by Robert E. Lee, who would later go on to lead the Confederate Army. Inside the nearby museum, there is a quote from Malcolm X, “If you want to help me and my cause, you must be willing to do as old John Brown did.” I know he is speaking to me.

John Brown was a race traitor of the first order. Stating that, if necessary, he would “forfeit my life for the furtherance of the ends of justice and mingle my blood further with the blood of…millions in this slave country whose rights are disregarded by wicked cruel and unjust enactments,” he struck a blow that would ignite the fires of Civil War and eventually end slavery in the United States of America. In a society where the lines of racial division had been drawn clearly, he identified totally with the struggle for black freedom, and willingly paid the price for it.

The image of John Brown, with his piercing stare and long beard, runs through my head as I prepare to travel to South Africa. I admire his clarity of vision, the way he saw clearly what he had to do based on the material conditions around him.

Were there any John Brown’s among the whites of South Africa? I want to find out if there were Afrikaaners who defied the government in the same way, Afrikaaners who stood up to the Nationalist government and paid the price. Were there whites in South Africa who resisted the hegemony of racist doctrine?

If nothing else, the situation in South Africa may shed light our own American racial schizophrenia, where white boys and girls are raised in segregated communities and schools yet dress like blacks, talk like blacks and make up over ¾ of the consumer market for hip-hop music. I wonder if there are any similar phenomena in South African society. What has apartheid done to South African whites, spiritually, morally, and culturally? Are they, like American whites, still trapped by the uncertainties of a racist logic their ancestors invented, still clinging to vestiges of the old apartheid regime? Have any of them embraced this change? In the place somewhere between dreams and nightmares I see Afrikaaner kids nodding their heads to 50 Cent and affectionately calling each other “kaffirs.” We live in a strange world.

I use America as my yardstick, because of some the uncanny similarities between the two governments in history. Peep this:

• Both rigidly enforced racial boundaries and categories: in the US it was the Jim Crow laws. In South Africa, it was apartheid, which literally means, “separateness.”

• Both governments were formed by Europeans fleeing oppression, who themselves became the oppressors. Puritans seeking religious freedom and political freedom were among the first European settlers of America, and the Boers, or the Afrikaners, as they later came to be called, fought to be free from British rule.

• Both have a strong underlying strain of religious zeal, which turned into racist fundamentalism.

But beyond the shared history of the two countries, beyond the complicated minefield of race, politics, and identity I am navigating mentally, I am simply trying to be silent. I want to clear my mind of all the half-formed ideas, the biases, the romanticized images, and the racist baggage I have at one time or another associated with Africa. I want to frame my mind to listen and absorb. I want to see as clearly as possible when I step off that plane.

W.E.B. Dubois writes that it was John Brown’s ability to honestly listen to African Americans that formed the foundation for his later actions. His radical witness did not emerge from ideological battles within himself, but from his experiences with the oppressed. This trip is a chance to listen, to learn, to open my eyes, and gain understanding. It is a chance to listen to the voices of resistance to apartheid, as well as the voices still suffering from its after-effects. It is an opportunity as well to study those who actively or passively maintained the apartheid government, in order to understand their motivations and feelings.

I do not know what my response will be until then. I do not feel called, much less ready, to storm any federal arsenals, or to openly defy the U.S. government. But through my listening in South Africa I hope to frame an appropriate response of conscious resistance to the America I find myself living in today.

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