What Does ‘Organic’ Really Mean? - Printable Version
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What Does ‘Organic’ Really Mean? - brianold - 08-02-2006 09:28 AM
July 29, 2006
What Does ‘Organic’ Really Mean?
By M. P. DUNLEAVEY
I HAVE paid extra for a fair number of organic products, believing that they are healthier for me, my family and the environment.
And now it turns out that in some cases I should have saved my hard-earned money.
Sure, some items that are called organic are probably worth the extra cost because they are produced according to strict standards. But the labels on quite a few of them are not worth an extra cent, according to a study of organic food by Consumer Reports, a publication of the nonprofit Consumers Union.
An uninformed consumer can end up paying 50 to 100 percent more for products that are no healthier and a lot harder on the wallet. Recently, for example, I paid a higher price for “organic” salmon. Consumer Reports says there are no standards establishing which seafood really deserves the organic label. “It is misleading,” said Urvashi Rangan, a senior scientist and policy analyst with Consumers Union.
In most states, wild or farmed fish can be labeled organic even though there is no guarantee that it is free from mercury or other industrial chemicals like PCB’s, Ms. Rangan said. (A consumer Web site maintained by the Monterey Aquarium Foundation has more information about which fish are safe to eat at http://www.seafoodwatch.org.)
Labeling has been a matter of dispute in the organic food sector. In 2002, the Department of Agriculture established standards that foods must meet to be called organic, but last year an amendment was passed to allow 38 synthetic ingredients — including baking powder, pectin, ascorbic acid and carbon dioxide — in some organic products.
Some lobbyists and industry trade groups are fighting this measure. I was appalled to learn that many other organic-sounding, eco-friendly terms — like “free-range,” “cage free” or “pasture fed” in many cases mean very little. A so-called free-range chicken may only spend a few minutes a day outside, at best.
Cage-free “may mean the animal is out of the cage” or it may mean nothing at all, Ms. Rangan said.
And forget “natural.”
“Consumers may think it means the same as organic, but there’s no significant policing of the term ‘natural,’ ” said Ronnie Cummins, national director of the Organic Consumers Association, an advocacy group. “It’s typically a marketing term.”
These issues are not trivial. Nearly two-thirds of consumers bought organic products in 2005, up from 50 percent in 2004; organic food is one of the fastest growing segments of the multibillion-dollar food industry increasing by about 20 percent a year. Clearly, many people are willing to pay more, but they need to know what they are paying for.
In addition to skipping the organically labeled seafood, you can forget organic cosmetics, “unless most of the ingredients say ‘certified organic,’ ” Ms. Rangan said. “Otherwise, we advise consumers not to pay the humongous premiums we tend to see in that category.”
Paying more for organic packaged foods like bread, cereal, pasta, chips, canned goods also may not be worth the extra money. The more food is processed, the more its original nutrients are stripped away. You might as well buy a mainstream brand and save some money.
Some conventionally grown produce has so little pesticide residue that it does not make sense to pay more for the organic varieties. These include: broccoli, asparagus, onions, corn, avocados, papayas and peas. Also, if you can peel the item, you may not need to buy organic.
WHICH foods are worth the higher price? According to an analysis by the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit organic research organization, the so-called dirty dozen — apples, bell peppers, celery, cherries, imported grapes, nectarines, peaches, pears, potatoes, red raspberries, spinach and strawberries — tend to have a high pesticide residue, even when washed. These are worth buying organic, as is baby food, which tends to be made from condensed fruits and vegetables.
Likewise, meat, poultry, eggs and dairy products that carry an organic label are free of pesticides, synthetic growth hormones and antibiotics. If a manufacturer does not use the term organic, but says the product is “hormone free” or “does not contain antibiotics,” “those claims are somewhat meaningful,” Ms. Rangan said.
Many of these standards are in flux. If you would like to make sure your organic dollars are delivering on their promise, you can keep an eye on the Environmental Working Group’s site at http://www.ewg.org or sites maintained by Consumers Union: http://www.greenerchoices.org and http://www.eco-labels.org.